Text and Photos by Lee Bretherick

Matahari 'Sun 'Island, at 6.00am is calm, tranquil and quiet. Sitting on the same jetty as the night before and looking across to the other islands reveals a strange mix of atmospheres. Not a breath of wind where I am and skies are clear, while in the distance brooding storm clouds reach for the upper atmosphere, full of turbulence and menace. Lightning descends from above and strikes an island but there is no sound of thunder to warn of the approaching storm- it must be moving away from the islands to cause chaos at sea.

After a hearty breakfast our speedboat (slowly) made its way through shallow turquoise blue seas, full of shifting sand banks and coral reefs. Local knowledge is needed here for navigation as the channels constantly change to confuse the unwary maritime traveler. While passing over the darker waters of a safe channel created from a reef drop off, in the distance a lone mangrove tree thrusts out of the pure white of a shifting sand bar. These amazing trees can take root in the most fragile environments. Alone, standing like a lighthouse on a mass of thin 'stile' roots this is the high-rise of the marine micro world.

In smooth, open waters a short journey took us to Kotok Island. This small island offers a ' back to nature ' experience of living in dense jungle and swimming in crystal clear waters over unspoilt reefs. As the boat docks and the engines die down the sea fills with a sparkling rainbow of beautiful fish that have a passion for bread rolls. Not what fish should be eating, but obviously they have an appetite - their graceful meanderings soon turn into the fish equivalent of a rugby scrum, splashing and tackling each other to get the best pieces. Team loyalty to different species is nonexistent in the melee.

With roads named after different fish, this charming little town has an incredibly laid back atmosphere. And most of the people seem to be laid back sleeping due to the mid-afternoon sun or perhaps from drinking too much Sukuu tea. The leaves of these large trees are frequently harvested and brewed to make a bitter tasting drink which the islanders say gives you added strength but it seems to have the opposite effect.

Conservation is important here and you can see mangrove farming in full swing. The Rhizophora mangrove tree in particular has been drastically depleted over the years but since the recent tsunami that tragically swept the Indian Ocean the benefit of mangroves as a means to stop erosion and act as a barrier to sudden water level increases has been acknowledged.

Another feature of the ecological drive in the islands is the turtle-hatching program. On many of the islands Hawksbill turtles still make the egg-laying run under the cover of darkness and the golf ball size eggs are collected and transferred to hatcheries for protection as they incubate. On Pramuka, baby turtles of different ages are kept in large holding tanks until their time of release. It's hard not to be overwhelmed by their delicate cuteness when small but for all their charm only a few ever survive to maturity if hatched naturally. By allowing growth to a certain age their chances of survival are increased dramatically.

Fortunately on the day of our visit we had the opportunity to release a variety of different aged turtles back to the wild. Arriving at a small beach with beautifully clear water and white sand you jump from the prow of the boat and wade through the warm water like Columbus discovering the new world. Soon hundreds of baby Hawkesbill turtles are set free, spilling out across the sand in a frantic dash to the sea. Some are confused by their new home and swim around in circles while others float with their heads raised above the water to catch their breath before descending at speed into the great unknown.

What better way to top this experience but to join them further out in the reefs as we find an excellent spot to go snorkeling. Even close to Pramuka you can find interesting corals and a variety of beautiful fish including Blue Damsel, Trumpet, Parrot, Angel, Porcupine fish and our new friends the turtles. You may look, but don't touch or take anything as these areas are protected and the policy is one of non-human influence.

Next stop Untung Jawa Island. Close to the mainland and easily accessible by cheap boat transportation, this is popular destination for the ordinary people of Jakarta, who enjoy a change of scenery from the pollution and crowds of the city with the bonus of a cheap seafood dinner. Unfortunately they bring the loud dangdut music and lack of respect for other people's homes with them, as evident by the uncaring behavior and philosophy of ' I don't live here so I can throw my litter anywhere '. This is evident in the mangrove forest elevated walkway, which should be an ecologically pure area and learning experience, but in fact is a giant smelly rubbish dump. Walking back to the boat to the sounds of ' Hello Mister ' again I was glad to leave because after the beautiful experiences of the other islands it was a shame to see an island ruined by insensitivity and lack of respect.

Following the coast to the west we made good time in the smooth waters towards Bidadari (Angel) Island. A resort with a good range of accommodation in the form of rooms built on pillars over the sea and different types of traditional bungalows, here you can relax on the beach, try the different water sports or walk through the pleasant gardens to the sound of birds.

Hidden away on one side of the island shaded by enormous trees lies one of the old colonial Dutch forts that used to be the guardians of the approach to Batavia. An impressive structure of stained red brick, this round gun platform still leaves enough clues in its architecture for you can imagine the original structure.

Leaving Bidadari the water starts to change to a greyish -brown colour as the influence of city pollution and runoff of mud from the land starts to take effect. Distinct currents move at different speeds creating ridges of trapped rubbish that can only escape when the weather turns stormy. It is true to say that you would be foolish to swim in such waters and the vision of a small black bag floating by with a pair of chicken feet sticking out the back, ready to explode due to the gas of its decaying contents puts you off anyway.

However a more pleasant experience is Pulau Ayer, which is considered by many to have the best facilities and highest standard of accommodation of all the hotels. With floating cottages built out over the sea, furnished with an ethnic Indonesian touch and offering fantastic views of the city in the distance on a clear day, this hotel offers plenty of activities including sports, Karaoke, children's play areas and arcade room.

Pulau Seribu is a unique environment full of interesting and memorable experiences, and being so close to Jakarta is within easy reach. So why not see for yourself and ' Enjoy Jakarta ' with a visit to the Thousand Islands.